If you are trying to upload a pdf to azhousing.gov and it shows a time out error, your file might be too small.
Capture the file as an image and print it as a pdf and upload it again.
If you are trying to upload a pdf to azhousing.gov and it shows a time out error, your file might be too small.
Capture the file as an image and print it as a pdf and upload it again.
After watching several videos, I spent about 2 hours trying to keep the brake pads in the clips while I put it on and they either didn't go in or fell out before I could get them on the disk.
To get the brakes on, I finally had to fit them into the part that goes on the disk and then carefully remove the whole assembly and slide it into the cylinder housing before the clips let the brakes loose.
I have had my ham license (KI7OAZ) for 4 years and I have struggled to find conversations. After finding a youtube post about triangulating (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtICIDDvnPw&t=194s) I realized that WebSDR (Software Defined Radios) are a great way to find activity. You can also hear some of the conversations. One site close to me is Northern Utah SDR (https://www.sdrutah.org/) If you use the TDoA (time difference of arrival) using the KiwiSDR, you can use a map to find other sites around the country and try to triangulate where some of the signals are coming from.
To convert from meters to MHz, use this rough equation 300/meters=MHz or 300/MHz=meters
I am still not sure about relays.
This started with a post from Joe Ross on ChiefDelphi.com.
I needed some further details to get this to work.
Out of Date?: To add the proper map to PathWeaver, open a File Explorer to %USERPROFILE%/PathWeaver/Games, make a folder named "Custom Game" and copy 2021-Slalom.png and .json from the PathWeaver git repo then make a zip of the two files with the name 2021-Slalom.zip.
When you create the PathWeaver, use the Slalom map, some reasonable numbers for Max velocity is 2 m/s and 1 m/s2.
Under paths, click the + button then click the Unnamed.path that is created.
Click the starting triangle and change the Y to -8.2 to get it to the bottom of the screen. My son pointed out that you can click the blue line to adjust the Tangents.
Click the ending triangle and move it to the end point.
If you single click the line you can create a new triangle. You can then click and drag the triangle to a new position on the map.
Click Build Paths when done and yes. Somehow (clicking on the path when it was first created?) I got it to rename the project but it didn't work this time.
The {path}.wpilib.json file you need ends up in PathWeaver/output. I had to copy it to src/main/deploy.
After replacing the voltage constraint, etc. code with the PathWeaver code, you have to change exampleTrajectory to just trajectory after the inserted code. There is also a few times that you highlight the error and do Ctrl+. to resolve the problems. Copying the json file to deploy means you can get rid of the paths/ part of the file name. There are better ways to do this where the json file is generated.
When you start the simulation with F5, remember that you will see the robot moving under NetworkTables, SmartDashboard, Field. You can add the map to the simulation by right clicking the top of the /SmartDashboard/Field window and navigating to the png file mentioned above. You have to change the Robot State to Autonomous. It is nice that you don't need a controller.
I found that the path generated by PathWeaver did not scale well to the robot simulation.
Now that I have been through 2 water heaters in 2 years, I am ready to learn how to maintain them.
I knew you were supposed to drain them every once in a while, but it is easy to assume they are working and hope for the best. If you do this, make sure you put a pan under the water heater to catch the dripping water when it does give out. I had rust tracks on the top of the old one.
The warranty is for 6 years. Ours lasted 12 years without doing any of these things. Delaying maintenance is a calculated risk.
This is from an Rheem Water Heater manual:
Replace the anode when 6" of the center wire is exposed. You should probably check it 6 months after getting the water heater and every year after that.
The anode rod is about 2.5" down through insulation on the top of the unit. There is a plastic cap on the top.
It takes a 1 1/6" socket to remove the anode rod. The plumber had to hit the top of the existing rod to loosen it. He said next time it will be easier. He put plumbers lubricant as well as teflon tape on the new rode before inserting it.
After 2 years, pretty much all of the rod was exposed.
Drain several quarts every month.
Check the pressure valve once a year (make sure it is drained to a proper place).
If you are thinking of a tankless water heater, consider the cost of wiring for it. The old water heaters used 10 gauge (10/2 on the wire) and the tankless needs 8 or 6 which is thicker. Larger tankless needs 2 sets of wires ( or maybe 2 hots and 1 neutral).